Although it is invariably categorized Hybrid Teas, this variety is so vigorous that it would be better and more appropriately transferred to the shrub types. It has been grown widely as a windbreak hedge, and some years ago, when visiting a customer at Angmering in Sussex, I found a hedge backing directly on to the beach that was every bit of 10ft (3m) high, covered in bloom, and obviously cocking a snook at the salt-laden breezes! As you are asking for a barrier, this is how I suggest that you deal with this hedge from now on. As soon as the growth buds begin to swell next spring, I would prune back all the older stems very hard to sideways-pointing buds, ideally no more than 1 ft (0.3m) from ground level, leaving no more than three or four stems, and these reduce by about a half. The result of this will be most vigorous reaction, with strong stems being thrown up from low down. What you do with them depends on the kind and height of hedge you are looking for. You want a barrier, and presumably one with lots of blooms, so, as the vigorous stems grow tall and while they are still soft and pliable, bend them down and tie them together with stems from the adjacent plant so that they lay horizontal and looped.
Apart from size and height, the important difference that affects cultivation is the necessarily shallow depth of the root system and the susceptibility therefore to drying out. With their suitability to pot and container growing, the risk is greater, and so is the need to be careful to see that it does not happen.
Roses do not like root disturbance, and while it may be possible during the dormant season to turn out and replant a miniature rose in a small container, you are hardly likely to be able to do this with a container of this size. The gradual build-up of nutrient and trace element deficiency therefore is a distinct possibility. This is a very big argument in favour of using an organic source like Humber and, because it is practical on a soil surface area of this dimension, maintaining a mulch cover.
Evidently you will have to buy this in as well, so a good idea would be to use granulated moss peat, and to take extra care of the trace element situation by spraying it or sprinkling seaweed extract into it every few months.
Grown in open ground, this problem is not so likely to occur, and if you follow the reasoning contained in the chapters dealing with feeding and mulching, there is no reason why you should not derive a lot of enjoyment and satisfaction from growing miniatures. One salient fact you should always bear in mind is that these little roses may be reduced in size, but the pests and diseases are not and, relative to the tiny tots, it is like having greenfly as big as bumble bees!
Most of the wood will be green, and in order to avoid damage from the corrosive effect of winter spraying, use a half strength spray of one of the less harsh sprays like Ova-mort or Mortegg. A mist sprayer is no good for this job - you will need a 'stirrup pump' type action sprayer fitted with a lance and an angle nozzle so that you can direct the spray up underneath from ground level. With all this pruning and cutting going on, do remember that this is not any old hedge. You are pruning roses, and the rules have to be observed at every cut, especially with regard to leaving spurs and the danger of dieback.
Apart from size and height, the important difference that affects cultivation is the necessarily shallow depth of the root system and the susceptibility therefore to drying out. With their suitability to pot and container growing, the risk is greater, and so is the need to be careful to see that it does not happen.
Roses do not like root disturbance, and while it may be possible during the dormant season to turn out and replant a miniature rose in a small container, you are hardly likely to be able to do this with a container of this size. The gradual build-up of nutrient and trace element deficiency therefore is a distinct possibility. This is a very big argument in favour of using an organic source like Humber and, because it is practical on a soil surface area of this dimension, maintaining a mulch cover.
Evidently you will have to buy this in as well, so a good idea would be to use granulated moss peat, and to take extra care of the trace element situation by spraying it or sprinkling seaweed extract into it every few months.
Grown in open ground, this problem is not so likely to occur, and if you follow the reasoning contained in the chapters dealing with feeding and mulching, there is no reason why you should not derive a lot of enjoyment and satisfaction from growing miniatures. One salient fact you should always bear in mind is that these little roses may be reduced in size, but the pests and diseases are not and, relative to the tiny tots, it is like having greenfly as big as bumble bees!
Most of the wood will be green, and in order to avoid damage from the corrosive effect of winter spraying, use a half strength spray of one of the less harsh sprays like Ova-mort or Mortegg. A mist sprayer is no good for this job - you will need a 'stirrup pump' type action sprayer fitted with a lance and an angle nozzle so that you can direct the spray up underneath from ground level. With all this pruning and cutting going on, do remember that this is not any old hedge. You are pruning roses, and the rules have to be observed at every cut, especially with regard to leaving spurs and the danger of dieback.
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