Any corrective pruning should be finished in February. Remember to paint all wounds over one inch in diameter with a pliable water-proof paint. This prevents drying out and checking of the wood and resultant decay and also prevents the entrance of disease or insects.
Do not prune the early flowering shrubs such as forsythia, lilac, spirea, quince, currant, red bud, peach, etc., until after flowering as any material removed now will reduce the number of flowers. Prune these after flowering to encourage new growth for blooms next year.
This is the month to do shearing or pruning of evergreens as they are usually unsightly after this operation, but with the beginning of new growth, they are unsightly for a shorter period of time. Prune the flowering shrubs that bear their blooms on new wood like althea, vitex, crape myrtle, and buddleia - this will stimulate flower production.
Whatever pruning you do, especially on your shade grapes trees, be sure you know what you are doing or call a recognized tree surgeon. Do not butcher your trees or allow inexperienced "tree surgeons" to do so. Irreparable damage can be done and often results in the death of the tree.
Birds
Repair and paint the bird houses early and get ready for new tenants. Birds do not care for the smell of paint, so allow time enough for the smell to weather out. Avoid the use of metal on bird houses or feeding stations it reflects light and is also noisy, both of which will scare birds. Remember, they are extremely wary and are easily frightened away, never to return.
Encourage your youngsters to provide and care for the facilities for the birds. They will very soon become "bird-watchers," giving them a wholesome pastime and invaluable training in conservation and nature study.
February is the month to bring in potted tulips, daffodils and other bulbs and start them to growing. Keep in a fairly cool place until the foliage turns green and then keep the temperatures under 60 degrees until the buds form. This will prevent ungainly growth or "leggy" stems.
Feed with liquid food after the foliage turns green to improve the overall quality of the blooms. This feeding gives intensity of color and beautiful substance to the petals as well as increasing the size of bloom.
On those few days of inclement weather, rework the house plants. For those plants that have spindled, or "leggy" growth, due to lack of sunshine or crowded conditions, pinch back to stimulate new growth and bloom. Take out a little of the, top soil in the pot and replace with fresh potting soil. Feed lightly with liquid food or a dissolved commercial fertilizer.
Divide or make cuttings of the plants that have spent the winter indoors and will soon be planted in the garden border such as geraniums, coleus, hibiscus, Jacobs coat, etc. Prepare the potted plants for a return to "garden duty" during the summer months.
Many such plants provide a point of accent or spot of color in a garden or patio design.
Do not prune the early flowering shrubs such as forsythia, lilac, spirea, quince, currant, red bud, peach, etc., until after flowering as any material removed now will reduce the number of flowers. Prune these after flowering to encourage new growth for blooms next year.
This is the month to do shearing or pruning of evergreens as they are usually unsightly after this operation, but with the beginning of new growth, they are unsightly for a shorter period of time. Prune the flowering shrubs that bear their blooms on new wood like althea, vitex, crape myrtle, and buddleia - this will stimulate flower production.
Whatever pruning you do, especially on your shade grapes trees, be sure you know what you are doing or call a recognized tree surgeon. Do not butcher your trees or allow inexperienced "tree surgeons" to do so. Irreparable damage can be done and often results in the death of the tree.
Birds
Repair and paint the bird houses early and get ready for new tenants. Birds do not care for the smell of paint, so allow time enough for the smell to weather out. Avoid the use of metal on bird houses or feeding stations it reflects light and is also noisy, both of which will scare birds. Remember, they are extremely wary and are easily frightened away, never to return.
Encourage your youngsters to provide and care for the facilities for the birds. They will very soon become "bird-watchers," giving them a wholesome pastime and invaluable training in conservation and nature study.
February is the month to bring in potted tulips, daffodils and other bulbs and start them to growing. Keep in a fairly cool place until the foliage turns green and then keep the temperatures under 60 degrees until the buds form. This will prevent ungainly growth or "leggy" stems.
Feed with liquid food after the foliage turns green to improve the overall quality of the blooms. This feeding gives intensity of color and beautiful substance to the petals as well as increasing the size of bloom.
On those few days of inclement weather, rework the house plants. For those plants that have spindled, or "leggy" growth, due to lack of sunshine or crowded conditions, pinch back to stimulate new growth and bloom. Take out a little of the, top soil in the pot and replace with fresh potting soil. Feed lightly with liquid food or a dissolved commercial fertilizer.
Divide or make cuttings of the plants that have spent the winter indoors and will soon be planted in the garden border such as geraniums, coleus, hibiscus, Jacobs coat, etc. Prepare the potted plants for a return to "garden duty" during the summer months.
Many such plants provide a point of accent or spot of color in a garden or patio design.
About the Author:
Steven Karback frequently contributes to http://www.zone10.com. Ready to roll back the confusion pruning grapes.
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